Sew Steady FAQs
Q #1: How soon will I receive my products?
A: Our Sew Steady table and cabinet inserts are custom made to order. Our standard lead time is about three weeks. Call to confirm or inquire about expedited shipping.
Q #2: When will I see the charge on my credit card?
A: The credit card is charged when you finalize the checkout process (this is different for dealers).
Q #3: What are your shipping costs?
A: You can see an estimate of shipping costs by viewing your cart. Final shipping costs will be displayed on the invoice.
Q #4: Can my order ship to an address other than the billing address?
A: Yes, we can ship anywhere you’d like. For dealers, shipping Tables and Inserts directly to your customer will include a $5.00 drop ship fee to cover processing and handling (this fee will not be shown at the time of checkout). The fee is per address, not per number of products. Standard residential shipping rates will still apply in addition to the drop ship fee.
Q #5: How should I fit my new sewing table to my machine?
A: Adjust the height of the table legs so that the top of the table is level with the top of the free arm near the stitch plate.
SEW STEADY TABLE DESIGN STANDARDS: All of our tables are designed based on having the accessory tray removed from the machine. We position the machine to have the front of the skinny free arm around 5″-7″ from the front edge of the table. The table encompasses the entire free arm/flatbed sewing surface (does not wrap to the far-right of the machine). If your machine free arm slopes downward and has contours we may choose to design the table to hover over the slope to ensure a perfectly level, smooth sewing surface. If you have a top loading bobbin and a sloped machine this may affect your use. Please contact us in advance for other options. If you are purchasing a Deluxe Table or Wish Table then the holes do not need to be in line with the needle to make circles.
Q #6: How should I fit my new serger table to my machine?
A: All sergers are curved downward on 3 sides where fabric flows. Our table design will focus around the flat area of the machine. This will still provide an extended, smooth sewing surface.
Q #7: What should I use to clean my table?
A: We recommend using our Sew Steady Polish, Turtle Wax Paste, or Goo Gone Gel ONLY. We have not tested other products. Use a soft micro fiber towel or soft cloth that does not have any fabric softener or anything that will leave residue and buff until the table is smooth. This works very well and will get the table nice and polished, allowing the fabric to slide easily.
Q #8: How should I fit my new insert to my machine and my cabinet?
A: Adjust the lift in your cabinet so the skinny free arm on your sewing machine is level with the top of the cabinet’s surface. When installed properly, the Insert should be level with the top of the free arm near the stitch plate.
SEW STEADY INSERT DESIGN STANDARDS: All of our inserts are designed based on having any accessory tray removed from the machine. The standard is to have enough space on the right side of the cabinet opening to allow space for machine cords, to use on/off switch, and accommodate for the hand wheel to be pushed down into the cabinet. The insert is designed to be perfectly level with the free arm of the machine. If you have a top loading bobbin this may affect your use. Please contact us in advance for other options. If the machine fills the majority of the opening of your cabinet then we may have options outside of a standard full insert to help fill in those smaller gaps. If you plan to use a knee lift feature while your machine is in the cabinet, contact us for custom placement.
Q #9: Why doesn’t the table fit my machine?
A: Our tables / inserts are designed to give you a flat sewing surface. they are designed having any accessory tray removed to expose the skinny free arm (not applicable on flatbed machines).
When first putting our table on your machine, you start with the front left of the free arm. The table should be perfectly level with your free arm where your fabric is going to go from our table onto your free arm right where your needle is at. If this is not level, even a 1/16 inch off, it will not fit your machine correctly.
Secondly, your machine may not be level. If you look closely you may see the machine is higher in the back than in the front. Our table can only be level in one place, so if the machine is not level, our table will fit differently on one side than the other. Our table is designed to fit over and around your machine in the back, once adjusted level in the front.
Unfortunately, when the machine is not level, we make the design that works the best and still allow the fabric to move freely and evenly from the front to the back without sewing uphill or falling off the back and pulling on your needle.
Q #10: What is the best way to install the legs on my table?
A: When installing legs place a soft cotton towel on a solid flat surface. Lay table upside down upon it. Push the legs all of the way on.
Q #11: Can I remove the legs from my table?
A: Yes. To remove the legs, just wiggle (do not twist) them back and forth gently and pull them up and off. You must support the acrylic. Never use a screw driver to remove the legs.
Westalee Design FAQs
Q #12: How do I know which Ruler Foot I need for my domestic sewing machine?
A: Click here to learn more about our options and determine what size you may need. We currently have 4 Ruler Feet available. Simply tell us the make and model of domestic sewing machine you’d like it for, and we’ll get the correct Foot to you.
Q #13: Can I get a Ruler Foot for my long arm machine?
A: At this time, the only long arm machine we offer a Ruler Foot for is a Gammill. Many long arm machines have a 1/2″ diameter ruler foot available. We have templates available for multiple sizes of feet. You must confirm with us your size of foot as our standard templates are made to fit a 1/2″ diameter ruler foot. We can also make our templates to work with a 9/16″ diameter size foot.
Q #14: What templates are available for my machine?
A: You have over 400 templates to choose from! We currently have 3 different thicknesses of template, and the thickness will depend on the machine you’re using the templates on. Just let us know what machine you’re using, and we’ll get the correct thickness of template to you (we even offer templates for long arm machines!). You can view or download our current template catalog here.
Q #15: Why do some Spinning templates have a Key and some have a Slot?
The templates where you do not stitch around the full template; we send with the slot opening only. We found that the key is only necessary on some templates.
Q #16: Why is my DVD not working on my computer?
A: It may be that the version of Windows Media Player you are using is not up to date or doesn’t have the proper DVD encoder installed. Click here for instructions on how to update the DVD encoder. If that doesn’t work, you can always use other media players that have the ability to read multiple video file types, such as VLC Media Player. It’s free and easy to install and can read most types of video/audio files and DVDs.
Q #17: Why is my DVD not working on my TV? I live outside of North America.
A: There is a different type of DVD required for use in international TVs. We have a PAL version available by request! In the meantime, you can use the standard DVD in any computer accepting DVDs.
Click here to see what version you need for use on your TV.
Q #18: What are skipped stitches?
A: Skipped stitches are when the needle carries the top thread into the fabric, but the thread does not form a stitch.
Q #19: What causes skipped stitches?
A: Skipped stitches are caused by incorrect timing in the stitch formation process. For stitches to form properly, the hook and needle’s bottom position must be timed just right.
Q #20: How do I avoid skipped stitches?
A: Make sure your machine is properly threaded, and the needle is properly and securely installed. We recommend the use of a new needle, and good quality thread. Presser foot pressure may sometimes need adjustment.
Pfaff Sewing Machines – When using a Medium Shank Foot for your Pfaff machine, you will need to use either the Spring Free Motion setting for the Expression and Creative range of machines, or put your presser foot into the mezzanine position – free motion position – darning position (refer to your manual).
Bernina Sewing Machines – Using a Westalee Ruler Foot? We recommend using the #77 Shank Adaptor (the #75 Shank Adapter is too close to the needle plate, making it difficult to move templates as the shank adaptor presses on the templates).
When using the 7 and 8 series machines:
- 7 Series – Low Shank Ruler Foot, Presser Foot Pressure setting “minus 4”
- 7 Series – Medium Shank Ruler Foot, Presser Foot Pressure setting “minus 15”
- 8 Series – Medium Shank Ruler Foot Presser Foot Pressure setting “minus 25″ and select Foot #9
These settings may vary slightly depending on the quilt thickness you are using.
Using a Bernina Ruler Foot? The new #72 foot recommends use of High Shank 4.5mm templates.
IMPORTANT INFORMATION ON THE CARE AND USE OF OUR ACRYLIC TEMPLATES
You must use a Ruler Foot when working with Long Arm rulers and templates, stitching directly onto a quilt. Ideally, the Ruler Foot should measure 1/2” diameter across the collar with the needle stitching at 1/4” from the ruler or template edge. This will make it easy to calculate spacings across a block or quilt.
Nolting, A1, Handy Quilter, Innova and Prodigy machines all have a true ½” diameter round Ruler Foot. Gammil and APQS have a 9/16” Ruler Foot, which will stitch out at 9/32” from the ruler or template edge. We now have a 1/2″ hopping foot made for Gammill Machines. We also have our own Domestic Machine Ruler Foot, designed to allow Domestic machines to use our Rulers in all different designs. We have an extensive array of purpose made templates for Domestic machines with High or Low Shank Presser Foot bar.
At Westalee Design, we have been making all our templates since 2008 to suit both sizes. Our templates are made Machine specific and you will achieve the same result for either sized foot.
- Store your Templates flat or in a template rack out of direct sunlight.
- Clean your Templates with Isopropyl (eyeglass cleaner) or warm soapy water. Do not use anything that contains ammonia.
- Clear Cast Acrylic can break if you drop it.
Template Rules & Tips for Use
- Always use an extension table on your machine when using rulers and templates.
- Make sure that your table is flat and even with the machine bed. If you have any irregularities or holes where the table meets the machine bed, you should apply low tack painters tape to smooth these out or use a Glider (try our Grid Glider!).
- Make sure that your quilt is tensioned correctly, it is better to have a slightly firm quilt than a loose quilt when using rulers and templates.
- Remember that every stitch of quilting that we sew draws in our quilt, so it is always necessary when quilting to make slight adjustments as we go so that our pattern sews out correctly.
- When using rulers and templates, it is best to slow down.
- When holding the template on the quilt, do not push so hard that you restrict the movement of the machine.
- Our 1/4″ thick acrylic Templates are designed to work with long arm machines on a quilting frame, fitted with a ruler hopping foot. The Foot has a full circle base (collar) designed to run against a 1/4″ thick template. Where necessary, we have provided a drop box containing a list of suitable machines. Our Templates also come in 4.5mm and 3mm for Domestic Sewing Machines using the Westalee Ruler Foot.
- The sit down machines can use the majority of the templates sold from our web site, provided they have the correct hopping foot.
- The throat size on your machine can be a factor in your choice of template, especially the rotating templates.
If you want more information about using templates on your sit down long arm machine or on your domestic sewing machine, contact us.